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DC Field | Value | Language |
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dc.contributor.author | van Bergen, NG | - |
dc.contributor.author | Soekarjo, K | - |
dc.contributor.author | Van der Kamp, J | - |
dc.contributor.author | Orth, D | - |
dc.date.accessioned | 2023-12-20T08:54:12Z | - |
dc.date.available | 2023-12-20T08:54:12Z | - |
dc.date.issued | 2022-04-22 | - |
dc.identifier | ORCID iD: Nikki Geerte van Bergen https://orcid.org/0000-0002-7203-6446 | - |
dc.identifier | ORCID iD: John Van der Kamp https://orcid.org/0000-0002-3826-1973 | - |
dc.identifier | ORCID iD: Dominic Orth https://orcid.org/0000-0001-8844-3815 | - |
dc.identifier.citation | van Bergen, N.G. et al. (2022) 'Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance', Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport, 94 (3), pp. 627 - 637. doi: 10.1080/02701367.2022.2035662. | en_US |
dc.identifier.issn | 0270-1367 | - |
dc.identifier.uri | https://bura.brunel.ac.uk/handle/2438/27891 | - |
dc.description | Supplementary material is available online at: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/02701367.2022.2035662#supplemental-material-section . | en_US |
dc.description.abstract | Copyright © 2022 The Author(s). Purpose: In climbing, exceptional levels of fingertip strength across different holds and body positions are considered essential for performance. There is no commonly agreed upon way to measure such ”grip strength variability.” Furthermore, the accurate and reliable monitoring of strength is necessary to achieve safe, progressive improvement in strength. Therefore, this study aimed to develop reliability and criterion validity for assessment of grip strength across multiple holds and body positions. Methods: Twenty-two advanced toelite climbers (age = 28.5 ± 8.6 years) performed maximal voluntary isometric contractions on two occasions (for test-retest reliability). Conditions included two hold types (edge and sloper) tested in two postures (elbow flexion [90°] and self-preferred). Climbing performance was determined on two ”difficulty” routes (difficulty increases with each hold): one route composed of only edges and another only of slopers. Results: Test-retest reliability was high (ICC between 0.94–0.99). Significant positive correlations were observed for the forces produced on the sloper test and climbing distance on the sloper route (r = 0.512,p < .05), and for the forces produced on the edge test and climbing distance on the edge route (ρ = 0.579, p < .01). Conclusion: These findings support reliability and validity of the method used to measure grip strength variability with different holds and body positions and suggest that improving strength across different grasping types supports adaptive climbing performance. | en_US |
dc.description.sponsorship | Sportinnovator/ZonMw grant, project number Netherlands Organisation for Health Research and Development 5380010208. | en_US |
dc.format.extent | 627 - 637 | - |
dc.format.medium | Print-Electronic | - |
dc.language | English | - |
dc.language.iso | en_US | en_US |
dc.publisher | Routledge (Taylor & Francis Group) | en_US |
dc.rights | Copyright © 2022 The Author(s). Published with license by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC. This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/), which permits non-commercial re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, and is not altered, transformed, or built upon in any way. | - |
dc.rights.uri | https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/ | - |
dc.subject | climbing specific strength | en_US |
dc.subject | elite climbing | en_US |
dc.subject | functional movement variability | en_US |
dc.subject | performance monitoring | en_US |
dc.subject | reliability and validity of grip strength test | en_US |
dc.title | Reliability and Validity of Functional Grip Strength Measures Across Holds and Body Positions in Climbers: Associations With Skill and Climbing Performance | en_US |
dc.type | Article | en_US |
dc.identifier.doi | https://doi.org/10.1080/02701367.2022.2035662 | - |
dc.relation.isPartOf | Research Quarterly for Exercise and Sport | - |
pubs.issue | 3 | - |
pubs.publication-status | Published | - |
pubs.volume | 94 | - |
dc.identifier.eissn | 2168-3824 | - |
dc.rights.holder | The Author(s) | - |
Appears in Collections: | Dept of Life Sciences Research Papers |
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FullText .pdf | Copyright © 2022 The Author(s). Published with license by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC. This is an Open Access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/), which permits non-commercial re-use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly cited, and is not altered, transformed, or built upon in any way. | 5.06 MB | Adobe PDF | View/Open |
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